When it comes to purchasing Gunpla model kits, one of the most basic things about Gunpla are the numerous different grades out there, and in a way, these grades are the many sublines of the Gunpla lineup. Be it one of the main ones of a smaller one, the amount of grades in Gunpla are very plentiful. A grade is usually what will define the characteristics, level of engineering, complexity, and level of build a kit will be.
Some beginners into Gunpla will definitely want to know the differences between them before choosing a first, or even diving deeper, although not every beginner will have a solid idea on the traits of each grade. This page will give both detailed descriptions and a quick overview at the end of all of the existing grades in Gunpla, which will hopefully prove of help to those uninformed about them. All the existing grades are listen the following.
Main Grades:
- High Grade (HG)
- Master Grade (MG)
- Real Grade (RG)
- Perfect Grade (PG)
- Super Deformed (SD)
Other Grades:
- Reborn One-Hundred (RE/100)
- Mega Size Model (MSM)
- Full Mechanics (FM)
- Hi-Resolution Model (HiRM)
- First Grade (FG)
- EX Model (EX)
- Universal Century Hard Graph (UCHG)
- Speed Grade (SG)
- Advanced Grade (AG)
- Entry Grade (EG)
- Gundam Collection (GC)
- Hyper Hybrid Model (HY2M)
- Limited Model (LM)
- No Grade/Gradeless (NG)
First we will talk about the 5 main grades, these grades are the most popular and commonly known by fans. There are plenty more grades asides from them, however true to their name, the 5 main grades are pretty much the staple grades as of now, and are by far the ones people will be buying when going to a store.
High Grade:
Beginning our list is the typical small, palm sized High Grade. HG's are most popular grade among most Gunpla audiences, and are usually what people buy for a first kit. Despite their name, HG's are actually on the lower end of the spectrum when it comes to the 5 main grades. Older HG's have dated engineering, having problems like limited articulation, bad seamlines, and even possibly hollow constructions.
Some known problems even modern HG's might suffer from will have include missing color applications, more reliance on stickers, and even hollow parts on a few of them. However do not mistake them for being bad, High Grades are the bread and butter of Gunpla offerings, having the most variety of any other grade out there, they are easy to build, widely availible, and one can amass a collection of High Grades easier than any other grade.
The simplicity that HG's offer makes them the best line for beginners, casual collectors, and people who want an easy, relaxing build.HG's have also been evolving, and getting better over time. Some old ones will even hold out even in today's standards. Most HG's are 1/144 scale, the smallest scale of the main grades, with the standard sized kits being able to fit right into your palm. Nowadays, modern High Grades are a lot more well engineered, featuring improved articulation that could even top some older MG's, and others even feature partial inner frames, with most kits in the HGIBO subline even having full inner frames, albeit very simple and not super developed.
In fact, HG's have got a lot of lines in it's journey of evolution. HG's began in 1990, and back then they did indeed deserve their name, featuring 1/144 kits with revolutionary engineering and system injection molding, having moving parts, full transformations, and decals for the time. Back in the old days, Bandai made 1/100 HG's. These HG's are frankly quite dated, and despite being 1/100 scale, even 1/144 HG's are superior to them in most ways. These kits have problems like dated articulation, dated polycap engineering, bad seamlines, areas that could've been designed better, and loose joints in areas.
However despite their age and more modern competition, they do have their strongpoints in areas. For one, these kits are known for their excessive panel detail, which gives them a unique look, especially once you panel line them. Another strongpoint is that a few MS are only available as a 1/100 HG, or a NG, meaning that they are good options for those MS that don't have a modern incarnation. These are overall some nice blasts from the past, and are nice novelty kits to have if you can find them.
Nowadays, there are many sublines of HG's to accommodate for the different shows and timelines. HGUC (Universal Century) is the most diverse, popular, and well known one, with the biggest selection. The quality of these kits improved over time, and while the quality of some kits might be lower or higher for their time, you can see the improvements as age goes on.
Eventually, the line was to expand with the introduction of the All Gundam Project a move from Bandai to give updated kits of older protagonist suits. The All Gundam Project created other sublines outside it's own timeline of UC, creating some confusions with fans. These lines are HGCE (Cosmic Era), HGAC (After Colony), HGAW (After War), HGFC (Future Century), and HGCC (Correct Century). These lines are very small, and aside from HGCE, have less than 5 kits in each. The quality of these sublines range from pretty good to great, and even fantastic for these kits.
The All Gundam Project eventually evolved further to become the Revive line, bringing updated versions of a few older HGUC kits as well as the Freedom. the quality of these HG's are always top notch, featuring sturdy, articulate kits with partial inner frames and good detail.
The other lines from other timelines include HGGU (G-Unit), HG08 (08th MS Team), HG Fighting Action which is better known as HGEW (Endless Waltz), HGGS (G-Saviour), HGSEED, HG00, HGGB (Gunpla Builders), HGAGE, HGBF (Build Fighters, HGBC (Build Custom), HGPG (Petit'gguy), HGRIG (Reconguista in G), HGGTO (Gundam The Origin), and HGIBO (Iron Blooded Orphans). HGGU were barely HG's, more akin to good NG's, but were considered nice for their antiquated time.
HG08 has really dated kits, one of the first HG sublines, and the kits here have very little articulation and dated engineering. However they look pretty good in terms of appearance for their age, and have quite a lot of details and gimmicks to offer for their time. HG Fighting Action was made right before HGUC, and during this time, kits were still not very great. This is the worst HG line out there, limited articulation, missing colors everywhere, bad proportions, and bad seamlines. They are more NG quality than HG, even inferior to older HG's, so I'd skip the idea of buying most of them. HGGS bombed hard due to the failure that was the movie, so the only kit that was released in this line was the G-Saviour Space Type, while everything else that was planned never happened. A shame too because it was pretty good for it's age.
HGSEED is typically lower quality due to age, with lots of bad seamlines, missing color apps, weird proportions and dated engineering, not what i'd typically recommend, but have a decent selection of kits. HG00 is a mixed bag, quality ranges from decent, sometimes occasionally bad, but usually it has pretty good kits for the time. Missing color apps and bad looking metallic stickers can be an expected thing for this line, with articulation and quality depending on the kit.
HGGB tend to be decent for their time but not the best, being inferior to HG00 overall, and the selection is also limited. HGAGE kits are generally considered very good, the kits are well engineered for the most part, they focus on their gimmicks while doing their best to stay as good quality HG kits.
HGBF usually have kits that are based off a previous one, and the quality of that kit can range between really good or quite bad depending on how many corners are cut and how well the original kit has engineered, however they are more often then not pretty good. HGBC faithful to it's name is mostly just option parts, weapons, backpacks, and extra parts for customs or extra accessories. HGPG are the Petit'gguys that can be bought on their own, which sell like hotcakes because of the inside jokes and easy collectability.
HGRIG has fluctuating quality, some being pretty good, to some being really bad for their age. HGGTO usually features partial frames, and reused parts/variants from and of previous kits in the line. However they are top quality, with sturdy builds, great articulation, and have good looks/panel detail most of the time, as well as clear decals.
HGIBO is the most recent line, featuring cheap kits, with most of them having a full inner frame that is usually reused for other kits in the line to save designing costs. These kits are easy and simple, but also have a lot of missing color apps and bad sticker use due to their cheap price tags, and there are also option sets in this line similar to HGBC. There is also another subline of HG called HGM (Mechanics), which features three 1/550 kits of MA from 0083, all with unpainted 1/550 figurines of MS from the same series.
Overall, High Grades are the run of the mill, "main" line of gunpla. They have with the widest selection and variety, containing MS representations that outnumber any other grades. They are simple, easy builds that should not prove difficulty, with quality that has evolved over the ages. There are many sublines to which have different quality depending their age, with most of them being at a cheap 1/144 palm sized scale, with older, more dated 1/100 HG's out there. They are a fantastic line to collect, and are the best line for beginners, and more casual builders to build from.
Some known problems even modern HG's might suffer from will have include missing color applications, more reliance on stickers, and even hollow parts on a few of them. However do not mistake them for being bad, High Grades are the bread and butter of Gunpla offerings, having the most variety of any other grade out there, they are easy to build, widely availible, and one can amass a collection of High Grades easier than any other grade.
The simplicity that HG's offer makes them the best line for beginners, casual collectors, and people who want an easy, relaxing build.HG's have also been evolving, and getting better over time. Some old ones will even hold out even in today's standards. Most HG's are 1/144 scale, the smallest scale of the main grades, with the standard sized kits being able to fit right into your palm. Nowadays, modern High Grades are a lot more well engineered, featuring improved articulation that could even top some older MG's, and others even feature partial inner frames, with most kits in the HGIBO subline even having full inner frames, albeit very simple and not super developed.
In fact, HG's have got a lot of lines in it's journey of evolution. HG's began in 1990, and back then they did indeed deserve their name, featuring 1/144 kits with revolutionary engineering and system injection molding, having moving parts, full transformations, and decals for the time. Back in the old days, Bandai made 1/100 HG's. These HG's are frankly quite dated, and despite being 1/100 scale, even 1/144 HG's are superior to them in most ways. These kits have problems like dated articulation, dated polycap engineering, bad seamlines, areas that could've been designed better, and loose joints in areas.
However despite their age and more modern competition, they do have their strongpoints in areas. For one, these kits are known for their excessive panel detail, which gives them a unique look, especially once you panel line them. Another strongpoint is that a few MS are only available as a 1/100 HG, or a NG, meaning that they are good options for those MS that don't have a modern incarnation. These are overall some nice blasts from the past, and are nice novelty kits to have if you can find them.
Nowadays, there are many sublines of HG's to accommodate for the different shows and timelines. HGUC (Universal Century) is the most diverse, popular, and well known one, with the biggest selection. The quality of these kits improved over time, and while the quality of some kits might be lower or higher for their time, you can see the improvements as age goes on.
Eventually, the line was to expand with the introduction of the All Gundam Project a move from Bandai to give updated kits of older protagonist suits. The All Gundam Project created other sublines outside it's own timeline of UC, creating some confusions with fans. These lines are HGCE (Cosmic Era), HGAC (After Colony), HGAW (After War), HGFC (Future Century), and HGCC (Correct Century). These lines are very small, and aside from HGCE, have less than 5 kits in each. The quality of these sublines range from pretty good to great, and even fantastic for these kits.
The All Gundam Project eventually evolved further to become the Revive line, bringing updated versions of a few older HGUC kits as well as the Freedom. the quality of these HG's are always top notch, featuring sturdy, articulate kits with partial inner frames and good detail.
The other lines from other timelines include HGGU (G-Unit), HG08 (08th MS Team), HG Fighting Action which is better known as HGEW (Endless Waltz), HGGS (G-Saviour), HGSEED, HG00, HGGB (Gunpla Builders), HGAGE, HGBF (Build Fighters, HGBC (Build Custom), HGPG (Petit'gguy), HGRIG (Reconguista in G), HGGTO (Gundam The Origin), and HGIBO (Iron Blooded Orphans). HGGU were barely HG's, more akin to good NG's, but were considered nice for their antiquated time.
HG08 has really dated kits, one of the first HG sublines, and the kits here have very little articulation and dated engineering. However they look pretty good in terms of appearance for their age, and have quite a lot of details and gimmicks to offer for their time. HG Fighting Action was made right before HGUC, and during this time, kits were still not very great. This is the worst HG line out there, limited articulation, missing colors everywhere, bad proportions, and bad seamlines. They are more NG quality than HG, even inferior to older HG's, so I'd skip the idea of buying most of them. HGGS bombed hard due to the failure that was the movie, so the only kit that was released in this line was the G-Saviour Space Type, while everything else that was planned never happened. A shame too because it was pretty good for it's age.
HGSEED is typically lower quality due to age, with lots of bad seamlines, missing color apps, weird proportions and dated engineering, not what i'd typically recommend, but have a decent selection of kits. HG00 is a mixed bag, quality ranges from decent, sometimes occasionally bad, but usually it has pretty good kits for the time. Missing color apps and bad looking metallic stickers can be an expected thing for this line, with articulation and quality depending on the kit.
HGGB tend to be decent for their time but not the best, being inferior to HG00 overall, and the selection is also limited. HGAGE kits are generally considered very good, the kits are well engineered for the most part, they focus on their gimmicks while doing their best to stay as good quality HG kits.
HGBF usually have kits that are based off a previous one, and the quality of that kit can range between really good or quite bad depending on how many corners are cut and how well the original kit has engineered, however they are more often then not pretty good. HGBC faithful to it's name is mostly just option parts, weapons, backpacks, and extra parts for customs or extra accessories. HGPG are the Petit'gguys that can be bought on their own, which sell like hotcakes because of the inside jokes and easy collectability.
HGRIG has fluctuating quality, some being pretty good, to some being really bad for their age. HGGTO usually features partial frames, and reused parts/variants from and of previous kits in the line. However they are top quality, with sturdy builds, great articulation, and have good looks/panel detail most of the time, as well as clear decals.
HGIBO is the most recent line, featuring cheap kits, with most of them having a full inner frame that is usually reused for other kits in the line to save designing costs. These kits are easy and simple, but also have a lot of missing color apps and bad sticker use due to their cheap price tags, and there are also option sets in this line similar to HGBC. There is also another subline of HG called HGM (Mechanics), which features three 1/550 kits of MA from 0083, all with unpainted 1/550 figurines of MS from the same series.
Overall, High Grades are the run of the mill, "main" line of gunpla. They have with the widest selection and variety, containing MS representations that outnumber any other grades. They are simple, easy builds that should not prove difficulty, with quality that has evolved over the ages. There are many sublines to which have different quality depending their age, with most of them being at a cheap 1/144 palm sized scale, with older, more dated 1/100 HG's out there. They are a fantastic line to collect, and are the best line for beginners, and more casual builders to build from.
Master Grade:
Next up on the list is the second most popular grade, Master Grades. MG's are typically more complex than your typical HG, generally having more parts, details, color separation, and gimmicks than an HG would usually have. This means that MG's usually won't have the minor nitpicks that HG's may have. Color separation is on a higher level, missing color apps are uncommon on MG's unless it's an older one. MG's will have more overall detail than an HG instead of just color accuracy, and most MG's have full inner frames where armor is built on top of it for a finished kit.
These inner frames will likely will have some moving panels and parts, maybe even pistons for a few, all which add a layer of depth, detail, and complexity to their build. Seamlines are reduced a lot more, as the frame allows a more well designed construction. MG's are at 1/100 scale, and thus are decently large figures, giving them more shelf presence than most poseable figures and a sense of higher quality. The size is also what allows an MG to have the complexities they have. A kit with full inner frames, pistons, gimmicks, and display options would be hell to build for at the more standardised 1/144 scale. Due to these advantages, MG's are usually very popular with most fans, almost just as much as HG's are, especially to those builders who like to have a bit more complexity, details, and unique constructions in their kits.
While one might initially think that these are more on the higher spectrum, MG's are also a very common grade that is bought, and despite the name, you definitely don't have to be a master to build them. While MG's might be more complex, complexity does not necessarily mean they are more harder or difficult to build, because in the end, you're just cutting and putting pieces of plastic together to build for the most part.
The way MG's are more complex is really they have a lot more parts to snap together and more parts are used to form a single section compared to that of an HG. Sure, there might be the occasional sliding panels, small parts, and pistons, but in the end it's still all just building a kit. Some people even start with Master Grades and build them for their entire life to stay true to the 1/100 scale. However, there can be difficulties in trying out an MG, those being the "new things" that they offer. Special quirks that certain kits might have like vinyl covers of the MG Thunderbolt Ver. Ka kits, or screws might be a little hard for someone with no experience. The same thing can apply to dry transfers and waterslides, both types of decals that MG's might have, the former being in most MG kits in general.
Like HG's, MG's have evolved a lot over time, and earlier ones aren't as great as the ones made today, with the obvious few exceptions, however unlike HG, the gap in quality is a lot more considerable. MG's have been going on since 1995, when the very first MG RX-78-2 was made. This kit is inferior to most HG's of the modern decade, and has lots of missing color apps, no inner frame, and bland detail. However, this kit had a lot of gimmicks and superior engineering for the time, but nowadays it cannot hold a candle to modern kits.
MG's started developing frames after the MG GP01 Zephyranthes, which was the first MG to have a partial frame, being for the legs. This frame was still simple, and didn't have a lot more to it asides from having really nice sculpting and adding an extra layer of detail, but most MG's afterwards would follow in suit, evolving and developing further into more improved frames. Early MG's at this stage were good for their time, but compared to modern HGUC they are still inferior, in fact HG counterparts of MG's during this time were usually considered overall superior due to value and articulation. Some of these MG's also used screws for areas of the leg frame for added stability as well as endurance. These screws can be annoying to drill in, as instead of following a "path", they bore their own way into the plastic from small holes. However, these screws can increase joint strength by a lot, and can make them last a lot longer with less wear.
It wasn't until G Gundam MG's were made where full inner frames began. Under the subline of MG Fighting Action, these kits had a brand new Fighting Action inner frame, which was the first full inner frame created. This frame had a large amount of screws and nuts to keep things together and stable. This was annoying for typical Gunpla builders, but what they got in turn was a rock solid frame with great articulation for the time, strong joints, and great balance. This was due to their simple construction, leading for the awesome frame to get some great poses. Unfortunately, these MGFA kits are also considered to be quite dated by modern standards, and eventually, MG's evolved inner frames further and further into the standard we know of today.
MG's also have another, more known sub-line called "Ver. Ka" The subline contains kits of Mobile Suits that have been redesigned by Hajime Katoki himself, making kits of MS variants in a way. Some MS are only available as Ver. Ka kits, not having their original designs being an MG already, while other MS might be already designed by Katoki, meaning the Ver. Ka might be anime accurate. Another thing to note is that just because Katoki designed an MS doesn't mean it's a Ver. Ka kit, like the MG EW MS, as EW MS were designed by Katoki but their aren't considered Ver. Ka's. Ver. Ka's often use numerous amounts of waterslide decals as well, with the exception of the early ones which used the standard dry transfers, but due to being designed by Katoki, marking and warning decals are usually plentiful and dotted around the kit. The line started with the RX-78-2 in 2002, eventually getting releases once and a while in the MG line, Ver. Ka kits are usually considered to be more complex than MG's of their own time, and modern ones could be considered difficult for someone without experience.
To sum up, Master Grades are the larger, more detailed kits without being high-end collectables. They are decently affordable, and are also a very popular grade amongst gunpla fans. As they evolved through time, these kits will more often than not have quite a large amount of parts, gimmicks, details, and color separation. They will also usually will have an inner frame that serves as a base structure for the final kit usually having with said gimmicks and details. They are a nice line to collect from, and the good kits in the grade can show most people the potential and growth Gunpla can truly get to.
Real Grade:
Real Grades are the newest of the main grades, and at the same time are arguably the most difficult of them. They aren't the large, expensive, part-excessive, high-end grade of Gunpla, instead, the way they are difficult is through a different trait the line has. RG's have the most surface detailing and color separation out of all the grades, even exceeding that of Perfect Grade. This is because RG's are redesigns of regular MS which look more realistic. They don't miss many color apps if at all, and even go so far to have multiple shades of one or two colors to make up a single area to increase the level of surface detail and eye candy for these kits. They also usually have a very large amount of clear marking sticker decals that also have some with reflective areas that might cover certain areas or even the frame. They also are known for their gimmicks, which they have plenty of, including doing things the MS can do, and go even further to have shifting armor pieces, moving parts, and sliding panels.
RG's even have a full inner inner frame, a trait that MG's and PG's also have, but RG frames are unique in that they are pre-molded on a runner, with moving joints and systems already molded onto that single runner. In fact, it's because of this pre-molded frame that RG's can have the armor shifting gimmicks they are known for, due to the way the frame joints are designed. This frame also allows them to have articulation near MG level, with all the shifting parts, joints, and moving bits the inner frame have.
They are also known for having a huge amount of sticker decals, like text, metallic bits, and warning symbols, similar to that of a Ver. Ka. Despite their level of complexity, color separation, and numerous parts, RG's are all 1/144 scale kits, same scale as standard HG's, which also allows them to be more affordable than an MG. This allows them to have more overall value for what you're getting, with all the pros at a small, easy to collect scale, RG's have gained popularity fast. All of this is the impressive engineering on Bandai here and through their new innovations put into the line, it is what allows for the moving armor gimmicks that RG's are known for.
However, as mentioned, RG's are difficult, one of the main difficulties are the small parts. Due to their massive parts separation, multi shades of color, and the fact all these parts attach to a small inner frame means these parts are both tiny and in some cases, fragile. These parts would not at all be easy to handle for people with big or shaky hands, and in things like nub removal and assembly, it can prove a bit of a difficulty. With these small parts, a stable hand and good motor control can help a surprising amount.
Another difficult part of RG's are their inner frames. Due to being pre-molded with multiple plastics, numerous joints, moving parts, all with an overall thin construction, RG frames usually end up being fragile. Simply messing around with a finished RG too hard could cause the small joints to pop out, loosen, stress, or even break due to the frame's delicacy. With the many delicately placed sliding armor gimmicks, the finished product is usually not very sturdy feeling one.
Due to this, RG's always need to be handled with care, these are definitely not the type of kit you mess around with often, if at all. Certain RG's even have a reputation for their problematic or bad engineering design choices, ending up with a finished kit with a lot of issues. RG's are not kits i'd recommend for beginners or people without experience, and builders definitely need to know what they're getting into.
In a nutshell, RG's are difficult due to their small parts and their fragile pre-molded inner frame with multiple joints. However they have the most surface detailing of any other grade, with panel details, parts separation, multiple shades of a single color, sticker decals with a few metallic ones to add a layer of realism. Thy also have a plethora of gimmicks, including sliding armor panels and moving parts, which also allows really good articulation for posing. However they are still far from the sturdiest kits out there, and should be handled with care. If you want to tackle an RG, i'd recommend that you get some experience with other Gunpla, and get familiar to the process by building a few other kits if you haven't already.
RG's even have a full inner inner frame, a trait that MG's and PG's also have, but RG frames are unique in that they are pre-molded on a runner, with moving joints and systems already molded onto that single runner. In fact, it's because of this pre-molded frame that RG's can have the armor shifting gimmicks they are known for, due to the way the frame joints are designed. This frame also allows them to have articulation near MG level, with all the shifting parts, joints, and moving bits the inner frame have.
They are also known for having a huge amount of sticker decals, like text, metallic bits, and warning symbols, similar to that of a Ver. Ka. Despite their level of complexity, color separation, and numerous parts, RG's are all 1/144 scale kits, same scale as standard HG's, which also allows them to be more affordable than an MG. This allows them to have more overall value for what you're getting, with all the pros at a small, easy to collect scale, RG's have gained popularity fast. All of this is the impressive engineering on Bandai here and through their new innovations put into the line, it is what allows for the moving armor gimmicks that RG's are known for.
However, as mentioned, RG's are difficult, one of the main difficulties are the small parts. Due to their massive parts separation, multi shades of color, and the fact all these parts attach to a small inner frame means these parts are both tiny and in some cases, fragile. These parts would not at all be easy to handle for people with big or shaky hands, and in things like nub removal and assembly, it can prove a bit of a difficulty. With these small parts, a stable hand and good motor control can help a surprising amount.
Another difficult part of RG's are their inner frames. Due to being pre-molded with multiple plastics, numerous joints, moving parts, all with an overall thin construction, RG frames usually end up being fragile. Simply messing around with a finished RG too hard could cause the small joints to pop out, loosen, stress, or even break due to the frame's delicacy. With the many delicately placed sliding armor gimmicks, the finished product is usually not very sturdy feeling one.
Due to this, RG's always need to be handled with care, these are definitely not the type of kit you mess around with often, if at all. Certain RG's even have a reputation for their problematic or bad engineering design choices, ending up with a finished kit with a lot of issues. RG's are not kits i'd recommend for beginners or people without experience, and builders definitely need to know what they're getting into.
In a nutshell, RG's are difficult due to their small parts and their fragile pre-molded inner frame with multiple joints. However they have the most surface detailing of any other grade, with panel details, parts separation, multiple shades of a single color, sticker decals with a few metallic ones to add a layer of realism. Thy also have a plethora of gimmicks, including sliding armor panels and moving parts, which also allows really good articulation for posing. However they are still far from the sturdiest kits out there, and should be handled with care. If you want to tackle an RG, i'd recommend that you get some experience with other Gunpla, and get familiar to the process by building a few other kits if you haven't already.
Perfect Grade:
At the end of the Gunpla spectrum for the main grades, we have the Perfect Grade. These kits are the big, pricy, most complex, most detailed high end collectables of the main grades. Obviously due to their status and size, the kits in this grade have the most parts out of any other with minor exception. They almost always come with a full inner frame like their predecessors of the main grades, they usually contain a healthy amount of gimmicks like pistons and moving parts. Even more so, some PG frames will have things that will make them differ from standard builds.
Examples include the use screws for stability due to the size and weight of the limbs, and in some cases, full metal parts are used for added stability in the frame are also done so that poses can be made and held easier. In some cases, some PG's will have a mekki plated runner so that some of the pistons will have a nice reflective sheen to them, however use of these pistons could wear off the coating. Some PG's also have LED systems, with earlier ones having them in the head, and the Unicorns having an LED system that can be installed through the psycoframe. It is recommended to install these LED systems before building if you plan on using them though, as the wiring might mingle with the frames and construction of the PG's many joints.
Due to the sheer amount of parts, color separation is basically fantastic, you will find nearly none, if not no miscolored parts in a PG. Articulation in a PG is also more often than not top notch, and they usually at least get the basic things down in terms of poseability. The real hinderances might be the complex nature of these frames and some poseability might be sacrificed for more stability and detail. as well as the design of the actual MS possibly limiting poseability.
They also usually have the most gimmicks of any other grade, with earlier PG's featuring really neat gimmicks like opening armor hatches, possibly working pistons under the armor or in the inner frame, or even moving parts and shifting panels. Due to this, PG's are complex in construction, but again that does not necessarily mean they're that difficult to build. as you're just building a kit by putting parts together.
The complexity again comes with the new stuff, things like screws, rubber stickers, or even something as simple as dealing with metal parts could prove somewhat of a challenge. Thankfully, PG's commonly have these, and thus it's easy to get a feeling of building something well done and new when you assemble them. Overall PG's just have a lot of stuff to offer, and they employ a lot of Gunpla's engineering at the point. They might use metal joints and screws for stability, using different types of decals and stickers, plastics in areas for a sturdier product, occasionally pre-molded/painted parts, and even some parts with special finishes, PG's overall do a lot of things that make their builds more different and memorable compared to most other Gunpla kits.
Size-wise, PG's are 1/60 scale, and thus are the second largest consistent scale grade out there. However, due to their build complexity, parts count, high level of engineering, level of detail, as well as size, the effort required to design and make these kits is immense. Bandai puts a huge amount of time and effort into designing these kits, and thus Bandai usually makes kits of MS they are confident will sell at least decently. Even so, they don't make a whole lot to begin with, as there aren't a very large amount of PG's out there. It's a very high end grade that will only really appeal to people with a lot of money, passion, and those people who want to really try a kit that will give them a run for their money.
Despite being the high end line however, despite their name, PG's are almost never perfect. A majority of PG's out there have some sort of problem that could possibly detriment the entire package for someone, with only but a third or fourth that are exceptions. However, despite most of these problems, only 2 PG's are considered bad kits that shouldn't be bought under normal circumstances, and one isn't even a Gundam. Just know the problem a PG might have, and how to deal with it.
Examples include the use screws for stability due to the size and weight of the limbs, and in some cases, full metal parts are used for added stability in the frame are also done so that poses can be made and held easier. In some cases, some PG's will have a mekki plated runner so that some of the pistons will have a nice reflective sheen to them, however use of these pistons could wear off the coating. Some PG's also have LED systems, with earlier ones having them in the head, and the Unicorns having an LED system that can be installed through the psycoframe. It is recommended to install these LED systems before building if you plan on using them though, as the wiring might mingle with the frames and construction of the PG's many joints.
Due to the sheer amount of parts, color separation is basically fantastic, you will find nearly none, if not no miscolored parts in a PG. Articulation in a PG is also more often than not top notch, and they usually at least get the basic things down in terms of poseability. The real hinderances might be the complex nature of these frames and some poseability might be sacrificed for more stability and detail. as well as the design of the actual MS possibly limiting poseability.
They also usually have the most gimmicks of any other grade, with earlier PG's featuring really neat gimmicks like opening armor hatches, possibly working pistons under the armor or in the inner frame, or even moving parts and shifting panels. Due to this, PG's are complex in construction, but again that does not necessarily mean they're that difficult to build. as you're just building a kit by putting parts together.
The complexity again comes with the new stuff, things like screws, rubber stickers, or even something as simple as dealing with metal parts could prove somewhat of a challenge. Thankfully, PG's commonly have these, and thus it's easy to get a feeling of building something well done and new when you assemble them. Overall PG's just have a lot of stuff to offer, and they employ a lot of Gunpla's engineering at the point. They might use metal joints and screws for stability, using different types of decals and stickers, plastics in areas for a sturdier product, occasionally pre-molded/painted parts, and even some parts with special finishes, PG's overall do a lot of things that make their builds more different and memorable compared to most other Gunpla kits.
Size-wise, PG's are 1/60 scale, and thus are the second largest consistent scale grade out there. However, due to their build complexity, parts count, high level of engineering, level of detail, as well as size, the effort required to design and make these kits is immense. Bandai puts a huge amount of time and effort into designing these kits, and thus Bandai usually makes kits of MS they are confident will sell at least decently. Even so, they don't make a whole lot to begin with, as there aren't a very large amount of PG's out there. It's a very high end grade that will only really appeal to people with a lot of money, passion, and those people who want to really try a kit that will give them a run for their money.
Despite being the high end line however, despite their name, PG's are almost never perfect. A majority of PG's out there have some sort of problem that could possibly detriment the entire package for someone, with only but a third or fourth that are exceptions. However, despite most of these problems, only 2 PG's are considered bad kits that shouldn't be bought under normal circumstances, and one isn't even a Gundam. Just know the problem a PG might have, and how to deal with it.
In the end, PG's are really the high end collectable for Gunpla, and are targeted at the people who want big, complex, expensive, well designed kits to brag about in their collection. They employ a lot of Gunpla designing techniques, like pre-done parts, mekki plating, metal parts and screws to make each build feel complex, interesting to put together, memorable, and unique. The finished product will usually have great articulation, excellent detail, and a huge amount of of parts and gimmicks built into the frame and armor of the kit. While a lot of PG's usually have one problem or two that could detriment the package, they are undoubtedly the biggest and baddest of the grades, and are valuable kits to any Gunpla builder out there.
For the last of the main grades, we have Super Deformed. As the name suggests in a way, SD kits have cute chibi style proportions, with a big head and shrunken bodies. SD kits are the easiest of the main grades, usually featuring a very simple construction with simple engineering. Due to this, SD's are the cheapest of the main grades, making them very accessible and easy to collect. They're usually targeted at children with their simple builds and easy construction, and more recent SD's are similar to LBX in the fact that they don't require nippers to assemble. The parts are designed in a way so that they can easily to pop off the runner, however if you want to minimise the nub stress, using standard nub removal will obviously be a good idea.
Due to their low budget and simplicity, SD kits tend to use stickers for some of their details, big or small, especially on Ex-Standards. Also due to their low budget, hollow parts in limbs, weapons, and backpacks are common things to expect with SD's. Even with a ton of stickers, you'll need to be very skilful at handpainting for exact anime accuracy, although most people wouldn't bother, after all, it's already chibi-fied, and the parts are quite small.
Due to their budget and part count, as well as their chibi styled proportions, it's safe to assume that SD's have the least articulation of the main grades, and for obvious reason. Their parts count and simple construction just allows for basic movement in most areas, and their chibi proportions means that a lot of movement will be hindered due to the collision of armor, both which don't give SD's the largest range of movement.
A characteristic some SD's carry are the eyes, SD Gunpla with 2 eyes are known for sometimes having pupils, symbolising that they're "alive" and their own beings. Some SD kits do replicate this occasionally, allowing you to have a sticker option with the pupils on or not, or even multiple for a certain eye expression. This could help to give your SD's more character if you want to, although the standard eyes of a mech robot are usually included as well. Some SD kits even have a piece that can allow you to switch between multiple eye options if you're lucky.
While there are fans of the chibi style, it's definitely not for all fans out there, or even kit collectors who like their mechs look normal. They are mainly for quick fun builds or for children, don't expect a challenge from these kits unless you're planning on making them look awesome.
SD's have actually been going on for a very long time, as they are actually the oldest proper grade out there. BB Senshi SD's dated back to the time where Gunpla still required glue and paint, and the SD's back there like the Gundaman lived more up to their name, and were properly "super deformed." BB Senshi is the overall longest line in Gunpla, still going on to today, covering the majority of SD kits that exist. These BB Senshi have a huge amount of selection, and are considered the standard type of SD.
There are other SD lines asides from BB Senshi however, like the G-Generation Zero and G-Generation F lines, a spinoff line to make kits of MS from the G-Generation games. These are a little confusing, as some BB Senshi also might have GGZ or GGF logos on them, but an easy way to tell the difference is simply by looking at their product number. GGZ and GGF are made with a lower budget, having very basic articulation and next to zero parts separation due to their price, they carry more inaccuracies than BB Senshi, and have more stubbier proportions, expect a lot of stickers and missing color apps with these.
Another line is Ex-Standard, a line originally targeted at overseas audiences, these Ex-Standard featured SD's that hard longer limbs, smaller heads, and more well realised joints, giving them a more agile look and far improved articulation. However the plastic content in Ex-Standards are quite low, similar to the GGZ and GGF lines, thus a huge majority of colors are done by stickers. However in a few cases, Ex-Standard stickers are very plentiful because they actually cover missing color apps most grades wouldn't in the first place, despite having next to no parts separation.
There are also other sublines that don't consist of your traditional SD's from a proper gundam show. There are plenty of SD's based off characters from a spinoff show or a small sub franchise, with characters based off MS from the actual gundam anime having warrior type motifs and designs. The first line was Chibi Senshi, a very short lived line that had warrior type SD kits of MS made in the early 90's like F91 and Stardust Memory.
Another line known for their warrior type SD's is SD Sangokuden Brave Battle Warriors, a subline featuring kits of characters from the show of the same name. These kits miss a lot of details from the show, and will definitely require paint for anime accuracy, but getting the characters are nice. This line began the trend of using a "base body" for the kits, allowing attachable armor that can be interchanged with others, a trend that would later carry on to future warrior type kits, and even a few BB Senshi kits.
There was also a short-lived line called SD Gundam Force, which had kits of characters from the failure of a show called SD Gundam Force. The kits are equally as cheap and low quality, and require a lot of work to look decent. Finally, as BB Senshi covers most general SD's, they also cover some of the the warrior-type SD's, like Legend BB. Due to their age, they've been doing warrior type SD's since the 90's, and still do newer ones today as well as the "standard MS" SD's.
To summarize, SD's are the chibi line of Gunpla. They are usually aimed a kids, featuring mostly simple builds and simple color separation for the most part, with some larger SD's having a surprising amount of detail at times. They are simple builds, usually taking only an hour or even shorter to assemble.
Some modern SD's even have parts that can simply be pulled off the runner. SD's are the oldest known grade, dating back to when gunpla still required glue and paint. This age plus their multiple amounts of sublines gives means SD's have a huge variety of kits, many which are hard to come by nowadays. They can represents chibi versions of MS, as well as characters from various SD type shows, their huge amount of variety and chibi nature is the main appeal for most fans, and are great entry points for children.
Now that we've completed our look at the 5 main grades, lets move on to the other, smaller or lesser known grades Gunpla has to offer.
A recent grade that's been quickly been gaining popularity, and potentially becoming one of the main grades is Reborn-One Hundred. RE/100's are a new grade that are in a sense, the antithesis to RG's. They are 1/100 scale kits as their name implies, however they lack a lot of the complexities that MG's have, instead, their construction is more akin to a 1/100 NG or even an HG. They commonly use polycaps for many areas in their construction, and have a very basic build with no inner frame.
RE/100's take account appearance over most things, they do have different types of joint constructions compared to HG's due to the way these MS would look at their scale. Namely the way the polycaps and joints look, and a lot of surface detail that can even surpass some MG's. However, RE/100's lack the complexities and gimmicks of an MG due to their simple construction, and while some do have more gimmicks than an HG, it's not to the level of your standard MG kit.
Due to their decreased complexity and sometimes simpler joints, RE/100's have less articulation compared to MG's, and even modern HG's. The designs of RE/100's definitely play a role in how poseable the kit will be, as their more simplified construction at the larger scale might not be as forgiving as an HG due to things like heft, so their articulation standards are lower. They do an increased amount of build quirks compared to HG's due to their larger scale, but overall they are still quite simple and easy to make.
Something most people would recommend to do with RE/100's is panel lining. Due to the excessive surface details, RE/100's do have a considerable amount of panel lines, and lining them really helps the appearance of these kits. Due to this detail, they can hide the illusion of the fact that they are more simple kits, and blend in very well with modern MG's, even better than that of 1/100 NG's.
One of the main draws of RE/100 are the MS they make kits of. Unlike most grades, RE/100 intentionally exists to make kits of more obscure MS at a lower budget for Bandai, meaning it has good potentially satisfy a huge problem in gunpla communities, people that like obscure designs which Bandai doesn't know if they will profit from. By making a RE/100 kit, Bandai can both appeal to those people who might like these niche designs, and see how many people actually enjoy the MS, possibly making more kits of them in the future.
RE/100 also makes it easier for Bandai to make kits of MS that they don't want to waste too much budget on, like the Nightingale. The choice of MS that RE/100 makes kits of is a very good call from Bandai, able to make kits of MS that most people might not know about, as well as give the fans of these MS something to buy for their collection.
To summarise, RE/100 are kits of obscure or niche MS that usually wouldn't get a kit otherwise. They are 1/100 scale as their name suggests, but they are not as complex as an MG kit. They don't feature as many gimmicks or moving parts as an MG, nor do they feature an inner frame. Their construction is more akin to that of an HG with more parts for better looking joints and a more detailed appearance.
The surface detail on RE/100's are usually on par, or even superior to that of MG's, meaning that without prior context, they can mostly blend into a display full of MG's, as the line prioritises appearance over most other aspects. However this can sometimes lead to sacrifices in articulation due to the reduced stability of no inner frame, as well as simplified joint construction. They are definitely neat kits to collect, and do feature some very unique suits that don't tend to get as much recognition in the modern day.
Mega Size Models pretty much gives away the main draw of the grade right there in the name. As you might have guessed, MSM kits are big, bigger than most PG's, and bigger than most other Gunpla you might have as well. MSM kits are at the 1/48 scale, with normal sized MSM being able to stand at the same size of the PG Unicorn Gundam in Destroy Mode, the biggest PG at head height. Now, a lot of readers might be thinking, bigger is always better isn't it? Well to that I answer, not necessarily.
While MSM's are definitely big, they are not the most difficult kits out there, nor even complex at all. They're build quality is akin to that of large HG kits, and not the most modern ones either. You really just slap a lot of huge pieces together and thus have a huge finished product, and that's pretty much it, even missing color apps are present on these kits. They're similar to RE/100's in that they focus more on appearance rather than functionality to make up for their build simplicity. MSM's use better looking joints, panel lines, and surface detailing to make them more appealing to the eye for their large scale. They also come with a few waterslide decals, as clear stickers would usually not look as good on a huge surface of an MSM.
However like RE/100's, the simple construction and better looking joints also sacrifice articulation, only with MSM's, it's much more apparent. Simple posing is all these things can really do and more is surpassing their expectations, most other grades beat them in poseability, even the majority of HG's. Due to their simple construction, a lot of the parts are hollow and light, combined with size and weight distribution, MSM's definitely do not feel their size, they are very light and overall feel cheap.
Gimmicks are also lacking on these kits, with the most they sometimes do are including LED's for the MS with the AGE system or moving monoeyes for the Zakus, otherwise they don't have a lot to make the finished product really interesting besides what you see. They also have large bad seamlines in some of these kits, so seamline removal is recommended for them to make them look good at their size. Another thing that's highly recommended for these kits is one that's shared from RE/100's, and that's panel lining. Simply lining the panels and extra details elevates the look of these guys a whole lot more, something that they definitely would benefit from at their size.
If it isn't obvious, the main target of MSM's are actually children, kids who might not find the complexities of a PG appealing, but want a big dumb kit to build and mess around with. One obvious sign of this are their bright colorful manuals full of modelling tips for a beginner which are easy to follow and appealing to a young kid's eyes.
Another obvious giveaway is the fact they're advertised to not require tools to assemble, instead they are provided this plastic tool on one of the runners which can be used to separate parts from their runners. This however is not recommended if you care for nubs, as while they can certainly separate parts from runners, they definitely don't do a good job with nubmarks. Runners are also labeled by limbs similar to LBX so that children can organise them easier and find the parts they might want faster.
Some MSM also have this feature where you can combine certain runners together, and cut out completed parts, which is quite an efficient and unique way of building a kit. Despite this however, the line has not done very well, only appealing to a niche where children who have parents that are willing to use the money, as well as people who want a big MS.
The lack of complexity and articulation of the finished product deters a lot of veteran Gunpla collectors as well. As such, the line didn't sell as much as Bandai would've liked, and thus there are very little kits in the grade, even when including exclusives. However MSM's were given a bit of a revival with the launch of the 1/1 Unicorn Statue, with the grade making a return with the MSM Unicorn Gundam [Destroy Mode].
To summarise, MSM's are big kits, but not hard kits. They are very simple in construction, rivalling that of HG kits. They're aimed at children who want a big fun kit to have but can't afford a PG. To make up for their simplicity, they make up for it in appearance, having a lot of surface detail, panel lines, and better looking joints. However looks are really all they have to offer, as they surprisingly lack in poseability and gimmicks, meaning what you see is what you get. They do require extra work in some areas to look as good as they can for their size.
The only real draw to these kits are the fact they are really big compared to everything else. Due to a lot of their audiences being turned off for one reason or another, Bandai didn't make a whole lot of them due to their lack of sales. If you want a big kit but want a more fun or challenging build, you're better off getting a PG. However if you want a simple kit that is big and fun, MSM's might appeal to you.
Full Mechanics is the most recent grade, and at the same time is a very simple one. Full Mechanics are basically the 1/100 IBO NG's put into an official grade at the release of IBO S2. Nothing new is really that different, as they share the same traits that the 1/100 IBO kits had. Exactly like the 1/100 IBO NG's, they feature full inner frames, however since all FM kits happen to be Gundams, they are all different types of Gundam Frames.
Parts separation is amazing, most minor color apps are parts and the kit is almost 100% color accurate to the animation model, with the exception of the stickers. Sticker use is minimal and the majority of them are optional frame stickers, the rest are usually parts, including the eyes. They're quite easy builds, not difficult by any stretch of the imagination and very beginner friendly. They are about as easy to build as an HG, but due to the inner frame, minor gimmicks, and extra parts separation, they are a step up from the complexity of an HG.
Due to being basically identical to the 1/100 IBO kits, they also share some of the problems that most of the old IBO 1/100's had, specifically the joints. As you may or may not know, the biggest problem with the 1/100 IBO kits are their weak joints due to the softer plastic type not being able to hold up a lot of weight, as well as polycaps decreasing joint strength. Obviously, FM's share this exact problem, with the joints not being able to hold heavier weapons, as well as wear over time slightly. Some FM might also have a few balancing issues in certain joints, specifically the legs, although unless the kit is top-heavy.
Otherwise they're quite standard. Due to the good parts separation, Painting details will be easy due to the large parts and detailed areas. Although even with this increased detail compared to an MG, it's not at that level yet due to the lack of smaller parts, as well as the simpler construction. However they feature a bit of molded details like panel lines similar to RE/100's to make up for their lack of parts separation at their scale, so they don't stand out too much with to MG's.
As kits, asides from the large scale and presentation, they don't usually do much. Articulation is pretty good, but nothing will really impress, and they're all very similar due to all the MS using the all familiar near identical Gundam Frame, all differences in poseability would be due to light and/or bulky armor. Gimmicks depend on the MS, however most only have one or two real gimmicks to mess around with, however things like the waist pistons and sub-arms, and extra weapons integrated into the armor, otherwise there aren't a lot of gimmicks or engineering feats asides from good part separation to talk about. Otherwise they're quite simple kits of IBO Gundams from S2, they don't have a large variety either, with a grand total of 4 kits out there with no plans to make any more.
In a nutshell, FM kits are basically the 1/100 IBO NG's given a grade for S2. All of them are Gundams so they all use minor retools of the base Gundam frame, so articulation for all of them is a very good overall, but nothing amazing and truly impressive to talk about. Details are quite good with a lot of surface detail like panel lines similar to RE/100's, and part separation is quite impressive for the most part, yet still requires stickers for some of the finer colors. FM's also have loose joints due to polycaps and the type of plastic used for the kit's frames not being able to support the heavy weight of some of the joints. In the end, they're nice kits for what they are, and while aren't MG scale, are nice kits overall, and a step up from standard 1/100 NG's.
Another recent grade, Hi-Resolution Models are another high-end collectable grade of gunpla. Hi-Res kits are 1/100 scale, which doesn't give them the biggest size out there, however these kits still stand out from the crowd very easily for a couple of reasons. First of all, this grade features kits that are obvious redesigns from their in show model, with a new look, new proportions, more details and more colors.
Hi-Res kits have extreme levels of parts separation, with next to no reliance on stickers. All the details seen on a Hi-Res are all parts from a runner or part of the inner frame. Even with this, Hi-Res kits take it to the next level with multiple shades for the plainer colors, like grey parts added into the white for a more busy look.
Hi-Res is also known for the fact that most of it's coloured armor parts are usually in a special coating, paintwork, or even with parts that are simply injected in a special gloss/matte finish on the runner, for example metallic red with black undercoat, glossy white and grey, as well as clear parts with silver paint under it to make them shine. These kits have amazing appearances out of the box due to this, and it doesn't take any work to make them look amazing.
You might be scared though that these finishes means the nubmarks will look awful, but Bandai isn't stupid, most of the parts are undergated and placed in smart areas, so from most angles, the nubs won't really be noticeable, not unless you look hard for them. Another unique trait of Hi-Res kits are their inner frame, unlike any other Gunpla, this inner frame is pre-built and needs no assembly, all the building you're really doing for Hi-Res is attaching the armor parts.
Due to this, the kits are very strong and stable, the frames themselves have die-cast metal parts in them, so they both give a good heft to the kit, add a lot more stability to the joints, strengthen rigidity, and overall elevates the look. The inner frames are very strong, and while they don't feel the best when assembled, they are fine with all the armor on. The frames themselves are very detailed, with a lot of plastic colors on them, gimmicks like working pistons and mechanisms, and are overall some really nice inner frames that stand out from the rest.
Despite this, Hi-Res isn't known for it's poseability, because while Hi-Res kits look great, the overall weight and balance isn't always the best with the armor. Even with sturdy joints that you'd think have a lot or range, it might be hard to get a pose due to them not being able to hold up it's own weight. Now, you might be already able to tell as well, but Hi-Res are not your typical model kit, these kits are not really built from the ground up, you're really just putting armor parts on a pre-assembled frame.
Not only this, but customising is a no for this kit, Hi-Res kits are meant to be built to the manual and are not really made to be painted or customised. The frame especially, due to it's pre-built nature, it's not meant to be torn apart and messed about on, and if you do break it, it costs a lot for a replacement. As for the armor, sure you can work on it, but that wastes the finishes and coatings the kits come in, basically meaning you're wasting your own money in that aspect. So the "OOB only" traits of Hi-Res could, and already did turn off some Gunpla fans from buying Hi-Res kits, as the building experience isn't quite as complete, while the customising experience isn't really meant to happen.
Another turn off for some people are the prices, due to the special finishes, extreme engineering, major parts separation, and pre-built inner frame containing die-cast, these kits are expensive, bordering if not surpassing PG prices. For that, typical gunpla fans would rather buy a PG rather than a glorified 1/100 kit that pretty much just looks amazing.
All in all, Hi-Res is a black sheep compared to other Gunpla. It is a high end grade with great engineering, as the OOB appearance of these kits look absolutely stunning. Parts are in special coatings and finishes, with smart gate placement to hide the nubs. There's have very detailed pre-built inner frames with metal parts in it that give it stability and premium weight.
However despite having strong and stiff joints in the frame, the weight does not help Hi-Res kits balance-wise, and posing can be a little difficult. Hi-Res kits are also not intended to be customised, as they are kits that are meant to be displayed OOB due to the special finish armor parts and the pre-built frame. They are also very expensive due to their construction, so you might want to consider PG's if you have the money for them.
Overall if you're looking for a center piece that stands out in a 1/100 display with minimal effort, and don't mind the high-price tag, these kits do the job excellently. They're excellent display pieces and some of the most unique kits Gunpla has to offer, and if you're interested in them for what they are, you won't be disappointed in the finished product.
First grades were a bit of a failed experiment on Bandai's part. FG's were basically an attempt by Bandai to make extremely simple and basic gunpla for those on a very low budget that also wanted a 1/144 kit. FG's are despite their name, not the first grade, as that title belongs to SD. However they're named such because they are sort of the "first level" of Gunpla, and are extremely basic as such. These kits featured barebones parts separation if any at all, and have the bare minimum of joints to get in a few awkward poses.
Originally, FG's were introduced with no color separation whatsoever, and had awful seamlines and basic poseability. They were still snap fit, however engineering-wise they were like modernised versions of the original NG's from the 90's, and their OOB presentation as well as poseability really displays that fact. Not to surprise anyone but they failed horribly, and only 3 of these kits were made. However despite this, these actually have some form of merit.
The sculpting of the early FG's are actually replicative of the original PG kits, and many could actually debate that they look better than their earlier HGUC counterparts. So if you have a low budget for the kit itself, happen to have tones of paint and modeller skill, and just want them to stand and look good, these ones might do the job. However otherwise, consider buying a HG instead.
However, FG's would eventually make a return in the form of the budget line for 00. These FG's actually have some form of parts separation and looked better than the older UC FG's OOB. However, they featured the exact same basic construction and poseability, so it wasn't much of an upgrade. Some people liked these, especially kids for a simple first kit to buy, however just like their UC incarnations, they ended up failing horribly due to the similar problems and having too much of a niche audience.
In a nutshell, the FG's are a basic barebones line that really, really doesn't hit the standards of a good figure by any stretch of the imagination. They're very basic featuring simple joints similar to that of a vintage NG with both basic parts separation and poseability. Their only merit is that they're cheap, and that the old UC ones arguably have better sculpting to their HG counterparts due to being based on the PG designs.
If you know what these kits are like and want them regardless, give them a shot and possibly modify them into something to be proud of. Otherwise, FG's can be easily disregarded in favour of the HG counterparts.
EX Models are a bit of a strange grade compared to that of standard Gunpla. One obvious thing that you'll learn about EX Models is that they have absolutely no proper Mobile Suits kits in the grade, the closest thing you have is the Hildolfr, and that thing's more of a tank than an MS. Well, that's the thing about EX Models, they are model kits of the various support vehicles, ships, and miscellaneous machines of the UC and CE timelines. This grade isn't a common one to see on shelves nowadays, and as evident by it's limited variety and timeline reach, didn't do very well with most audiences.
There are a couple of reasons for this, so I'll just point out the most apparent one. The main draw to the Gundam franchise are the MS themselves, and while there are some fans of the other vehicles and support stuff, they're a niche audience. Some people appreciate them, be it for diorama displays, or just as novelty, but the fact that these aren't proper mobile suits detracts a lot of appeal from a franchise that's known for being a mecha show.
Second of all, is the work needed. With a few exceptions, EX Models don't look the best OOB and come in simple colors and sometimes, none. Meaning paint is almost a necessity when building these, or if you want to make them look better. There are exceptions to this, but this makes their reach a lot lower than other Gunpla.
Finally, the last problem are their price. For what they are and compared to other Gunpla kits on the market, EX Models are quite expensive, with 1/144 kits bordering low MG price. For simple vehicles that require more paint, that's a high asking price, and for a line known for it's value and low price, this is a massive strike against the grade as a whole, so from the get go with it's lower quality kits at a higher price, it was bound to draw away the already smaller audiences that were interested.
The grade is not merit-less however, as the kits occasionally feature some interesting inclusions like scale MS for the ships and battle stations, and occasionally some interesting gimmicks. Another thing to praise the grade for is their attention to surface detailing, it's quite praiseworthy. When you look closely, EX Models actually have a lot of attention to detail and accuracy in it's molding, be it bolts, vents, panels or otherwise, EX Kits offer really good detail, so it's not all bad.
Overall, no, EX Models are not the best kits out there. They're expensive and require some work from the modeller to truly shine, and when compared to other Gunpla, that's just not enough to gain a leverage over the standard grades. Nowadays, you won't see them often, and you'll have to look a bit to find some if you really want one.
They aren't without merit however, as the amount of detail these kits have is nothing to scoff at, and if you want an vehicle or ship from UC or CE timelines, EX Models are one of the only lines that offer them. These are more like standard model kits in the end, but they are fine for what they are if you expect that, and if you don't compare them to other Gunpla.
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Due to their low budget and simplicity, SD kits tend to use stickers for some of their details, big or small, especially on Ex-Standards. Also due to their low budget, hollow parts in limbs, weapons, and backpacks are common things to expect with SD's. Even with a ton of stickers, you'll need to be very skilful at handpainting for exact anime accuracy, although most people wouldn't bother, after all, it's already chibi-fied, and the parts are quite small.
Due to their budget and part count, as well as their chibi styled proportions, it's safe to assume that SD's have the least articulation of the main grades, and for obvious reason. Their parts count and simple construction just allows for basic movement in most areas, and their chibi proportions means that a lot of movement will be hindered due to the collision of armor, both which don't give SD's the largest range of movement.
A characteristic some SD's carry are the eyes, SD Gunpla with 2 eyes are known for sometimes having pupils, symbolising that they're "alive" and their own beings. Some SD kits do replicate this occasionally, allowing you to have a sticker option with the pupils on or not, or even multiple for a certain eye expression. This could help to give your SD's more character if you want to, although the standard eyes of a mech robot are usually included as well. Some SD kits even have a piece that can allow you to switch between multiple eye options if you're lucky.
While there are fans of the chibi style, it's definitely not for all fans out there, or even kit collectors who like their mechs look normal. They are mainly for quick fun builds or for children, don't expect a challenge from these kits unless you're planning on making them look awesome.
SD's have actually been going on for a very long time, as they are actually the oldest proper grade out there. BB Senshi SD's dated back to the time where Gunpla still required glue and paint, and the SD's back there like the Gundaman lived more up to their name, and were properly "super deformed." BB Senshi is the overall longest line in Gunpla, still going on to today, covering the majority of SD kits that exist. These BB Senshi have a huge amount of selection, and are considered the standard type of SD.
There are other SD lines asides from BB Senshi however, like the G-Generation Zero and G-Generation F lines, a spinoff line to make kits of MS from the G-Generation games. These are a little confusing, as some BB Senshi also might have GGZ or GGF logos on them, but an easy way to tell the difference is simply by looking at their product number. GGZ and GGF are made with a lower budget, having very basic articulation and next to zero parts separation due to their price, they carry more inaccuracies than BB Senshi, and have more stubbier proportions, expect a lot of stickers and missing color apps with these.
Another line is Ex-Standard, a line originally targeted at overseas audiences, these Ex-Standard featured SD's that hard longer limbs, smaller heads, and more well realised joints, giving them a more agile look and far improved articulation. However the plastic content in Ex-Standards are quite low, similar to the GGZ and GGF lines, thus a huge majority of colors are done by stickers. However in a few cases, Ex-Standard stickers are very plentiful because they actually cover missing color apps most grades wouldn't in the first place, despite having next to no parts separation.
There are also other sublines that don't consist of your traditional SD's from a proper gundam show. There are plenty of SD's based off characters from a spinoff show or a small sub franchise, with characters based off MS from the actual gundam anime having warrior type motifs and designs. The first line was Chibi Senshi, a very short lived line that had warrior type SD kits of MS made in the early 90's like F91 and Stardust Memory.
Another line known for their warrior type SD's is SD Sangokuden Brave Battle Warriors, a subline featuring kits of characters from the show of the same name. These kits miss a lot of details from the show, and will definitely require paint for anime accuracy, but getting the characters are nice. This line began the trend of using a "base body" for the kits, allowing attachable armor that can be interchanged with others, a trend that would later carry on to future warrior type kits, and even a few BB Senshi kits.
There was also a short-lived line called SD Gundam Force, which had kits of characters from the failure of a show called SD Gundam Force. The kits are equally as cheap and low quality, and require a lot of work to look decent. Finally, as BB Senshi covers most general SD's, they also cover some of the the warrior-type SD's, like Legend BB. Due to their age, they've been doing warrior type SD's since the 90's, and still do newer ones today as well as the "standard MS" SD's.
To summarize, SD's are the chibi line of Gunpla. They are usually aimed a kids, featuring mostly simple builds and simple color separation for the most part, with some larger SD's having a surprising amount of detail at times. They are simple builds, usually taking only an hour or even shorter to assemble.
Some modern SD's even have parts that can simply be pulled off the runner. SD's are the oldest known grade, dating back to when gunpla still required glue and paint. This age plus their multiple amounts of sublines gives means SD's have a huge variety of kits, many which are hard to come by nowadays. They can represents chibi versions of MS, as well as characters from various SD type shows, their huge amount of variety and chibi nature is the main appeal for most fans, and are great entry points for children.
Now that we've completed our look at the 5 main grades, lets move on to the other, smaller or lesser known grades Gunpla has to offer.
Reborn-One Hundred:
A recent grade that's been quickly been gaining popularity, and potentially becoming one of the main grades is Reborn-One Hundred. RE/100's are a new grade that are in a sense, the antithesis to RG's. They are 1/100 scale kits as their name implies, however they lack a lot of the complexities that MG's have, instead, their construction is more akin to a 1/100 NG or even an HG. They commonly use polycaps for many areas in their construction, and have a very basic build with no inner frame.
RE/100's take account appearance over most things, they do have different types of joint constructions compared to HG's due to the way these MS would look at their scale. Namely the way the polycaps and joints look, and a lot of surface detail that can even surpass some MG's. However, RE/100's lack the complexities and gimmicks of an MG due to their simple construction, and while some do have more gimmicks than an HG, it's not to the level of your standard MG kit.
Due to their decreased complexity and sometimes simpler joints, RE/100's have less articulation compared to MG's, and even modern HG's. The designs of RE/100's definitely play a role in how poseable the kit will be, as their more simplified construction at the larger scale might not be as forgiving as an HG due to things like heft, so their articulation standards are lower. They do an increased amount of build quirks compared to HG's due to their larger scale, but overall they are still quite simple and easy to make.
Something most people would recommend to do with RE/100's is panel lining. Due to the excessive surface details, RE/100's do have a considerable amount of panel lines, and lining them really helps the appearance of these kits. Due to this detail, they can hide the illusion of the fact that they are more simple kits, and blend in very well with modern MG's, even better than that of 1/100 NG's.
One of the main draws of RE/100 are the MS they make kits of. Unlike most grades, RE/100 intentionally exists to make kits of more obscure MS at a lower budget for Bandai, meaning it has good potentially satisfy a huge problem in gunpla communities, people that like obscure designs which Bandai doesn't know if they will profit from. By making a RE/100 kit, Bandai can both appeal to those people who might like these niche designs, and see how many people actually enjoy the MS, possibly making more kits of them in the future.
RE/100 also makes it easier for Bandai to make kits of MS that they don't want to waste too much budget on, like the Nightingale. The choice of MS that RE/100 makes kits of is a very good call from Bandai, able to make kits of MS that most people might not know about, as well as give the fans of these MS something to buy for their collection.
To summarise, RE/100 are kits of obscure or niche MS that usually wouldn't get a kit otherwise. They are 1/100 scale as their name suggests, but they are not as complex as an MG kit. They don't feature as many gimmicks or moving parts as an MG, nor do they feature an inner frame. Their construction is more akin to that of an HG with more parts for better looking joints and a more detailed appearance.
The surface detail on RE/100's are usually on par, or even superior to that of MG's, meaning that without prior context, they can mostly blend into a display full of MG's, as the line prioritises appearance over most other aspects. However this can sometimes lead to sacrifices in articulation due to the reduced stability of no inner frame, as well as simplified joint construction. They are definitely neat kits to collect, and do feature some very unique suits that don't tend to get as much recognition in the modern day.
Mega Size Model:
Mega Size Models pretty much gives away the main draw of the grade right there in the name. As you might have guessed, MSM kits are big, bigger than most PG's, and bigger than most other Gunpla you might have as well. MSM kits are at the 1/48 scale, with normal sized MSM being able to stand at the same size of the PG Unicorn Gundam in Destroy Mode, the biggest PG at head height. Now, a lot of readers might be thinking, bigger is always better isn't it? Well to that I answer, not necessarily.
While MSM's are definitely big, they are not the most difficult kits out there, nor even complex at all. They're build quality is akin to that of large HG kits, and not the most modern ones either. You really just slap a lot of huge pieces together and thus have a huge finished product, and that's pretty much it, even missing color apps are present on these kits. They're similar to RE/100's in that they focus more on appearance rather than functionality to make up for their build simplicity. MSM's use better looking joints, panel lines, and surface detailing to make them more appealing to the eye for their large scale. They also come with a few waterslide decals, as clear stickers would usually not look as good on a huge surface of an MSM.
However like RE/100's, the simple construction and better looking joints also sacrifice articulation, only with MSM's, it's much more apparent. Simple posing is all these things can really do and more is surpassing their expectations, most other grades beat them in poseability, even the majority of HG's. Due to their simple construction, a lot of the parts are hollow and light, combined with size and weight distribution, MSM's definitely do not feel their size, they are very light and overall feel cheap.
Gimmicks are also lacking on these kits, with the most they sometimes do are including LED's for the MS with the AGE system or moving monoeyes for the Zakus, otherwise they don't have a lot to make the finished product really interesting besides what you see. They also have large bad seamlines in some of these kits, so seamline removal is recommended for them to make them look good at their size. Another thing that's highly recommended for these kits is one that's shared from RE/100's, and that's panel lining. Simply lining the panels and extra details elevates the look of these guys a whole lot more, something that they definitely would benefit from at their size.
If it isn't obvious, the main target of MSM's are actually children, kids who might not find the complexities of a PG appealing, but want a big dumb kit to build and mess around with. One obvious sign of this are their bright colorful manuals full of modelling tips for a beginner which are easy to follow and appealing to a young kid's eyes.
Another obvious giveaway is the fact they're advertised to not require tools to assemble, instead they are provided this plastic tool on one of the runners which can be used to separate parts from their runners. This however is not recommended if you care for nubs, as while they can certainly separate parts from runners, they definitely don't do a good job with nubmarks. Runners are also labeled by limbs similar to LBX so that children can organise them easier and find the parts they might want faster.
Some MSM also have this feature where you can combine certain runners together, and cut out completed parts, which is quite an efficient and unique way of building a kit. Despite this however, the line has not done very well, only appealing to a niche where children who have parents that are willing to use the money, as well as people who want a big MS.
The lack of complexity and articulation of the finished product deters a lot of veteran Gunpla collectors as well. As such, the line didn't sell as much as Bandai would've liked, and thus there are very little kits in the grade, even when including exclusives. However MSM's were given a bit of a revival with the launch of the 1/1 Unicorn Statue, with the grade making a return with the MSM Unicorn Gundam [Destroy Mode].
To summarise, MSM's are big kits, but not hard kits. They are very simple in construction, rivalling that of HG kits. They're aimed at children who want a big fun kit to have but can't afford a PG. To make up for their simplicity, they make up for it in appearance, having a lot of surface detail, panel lines, and better looking joints. However looks are really all they have to offer, as they surprisingly lack in poseability and gimmicks, meaning what you see is what you get. They do require extra work in some areas to look as good as they can for their size.
The only real draw to these kits are the fact they are really big compared to everything else. Due to a lot of their audiences being turned off for one reason or another, Bandai didn't make a whole lot of them due to their lack of sales. If you want a big kit but want a more fun or challenging build, you're better off getting a PG. However if you want a simple kit that is big and fun, MSM's might appeal to you.
Full Mechanics:
Full Mechanics is the most recent grade, and at the same time is a very simple one. Full Mechanics are basically the 1/100 IBO NG's put into an official grade at the release of IBO S2. Nothing new is really that different, as they share the same traits that the 1/100 IBO kits had. Exactly like the 1/100 IBO NG's, they feature full inner frames, however since all FM kits happen to be Gundams, they are all different types of Gundam Frames.
Parts separation is amazing, most minor color apps are parts and the kit is almost 100% color accurate to the animation model, with the exception of the stickers. Sticker use is minimal and the majority of them are optional frame stickers, the rest are usually parts, including the eyes. They're quite easy builds, not difficult by any stretch of the imagination and very beginner friendly. They are about as easy to build as an HG, but due to the inner frame, minor gimmicks, and extra parts separation, they are a step up from the complexity of an HG.
Due to being basically identical to the 1/100 IBO kits, they also share some of the problems that most of the old IBO 1/100's had, specifically the joints. As you may or may not know, the biggest problem with the 1/100 IBO kits are their weak joints due to the softer plastic type not being able to hold up a lot of weight, as well as polycaps decreasing joint strength. Obviously, FM's share this exact problem, with the joints not being able to hold heavier weapons, as well as wear over time slightly. Some FM might also have a few balancing issues in certain joints, specifically the legs, although unless the kit is top-heavy.
Otherwise they're quite standard. Due to the good parts separation, Painting details will be easy due to the large parts and detailed areas. Although even with this increased detail compared to an MG, it's not at that level yet due to the lack of smaller parts, as well as the simpler construction. However they feature a bit of molded details like panel lines similar to RE/100's to make up for their lack of parts separation at their scale, so they don't stand out too much with to MG's.
As kits, asides from the large scale and presentation, they don't usually do much. Articulation is pretty good, but nothing will really impress, and they're all very similar due to all the MS using the all familiar near identical Gundam Frame, all differences in poseability would be due to light and/or bulky armor. Gimmicks depend on the MS, however most only have one or two real gimmicks to mess around with, however things like the waist pistons and sub-arms, and extra weapons integrated into the armor, otherwise there aren't a lot of gimmicks or engineering feats asides from good part separation to talk about. Otherwise they're quite simple kits of IBO Gundams from S2, they don't have a large variety either, with a grand total of 4 kits out there with no plans to make any more.
In a nutshell, FM kits are basically the 1/100 IBO NG's given a grade for S2. All of them are Gundams so they all use minor retools of the base Gundam frame, so articulation for all of them is a very good overall, but nothing amazing and truly impressive to talk about. Details are quite good with a lot of surface detail like panel lines similar to RE/100's, and part separation is quite impressive for the most part, yet still requires stickers for some of the finer colors. FM's also have loose joints due to polycaps and the type of plastic used for the kit's frames not being able to support the heavy weight of some of the joints. In the end, they're nice kits for what they are, and while aren't MG scale, are nice kits overall, and a step up from standard 1/100 NG's.
Hi-Resolution Model:
Another recent grade, Hi-Resolution Models are another high-end collectable grade of gunpla. Hi-Res kits are 1/100 scale, which doesn't give them the biggest size out there, however these kits still stand out from the crowd very easily for a couple of reasons. First of all, this grade features kits that are obvious redesigns from their in show model, with a new look, new proportions, more details and more colors.
Hi-Res kits have extreme levels of parts separation, with next to no reliance on stickers. All the details seen on a Hi-Res are all parts from a runner or part of the inner frame. Even with this, Hi-Res kits take it to the next level with multiple shades for the plainer colors, like grey parts added into the white for a more busy look.
Hi-Res is also known for the fact that most of it's coloured armor parts are usually in a special coating, paintwork, or even with parts that are simply injected in a special gloss/matte finish on the runner, for example metallic red with black undercoat, glossy white and grey, as well as clear parts with silver paint under it to make them shine. These kits have amazing appearances out of the box due to this, and it doesn't take any work to make them look amazing.
You might be scared though that these finishes means the nubmarks will look awful, but Bandai isn't stupid, most of the parts are undergated and placed in smart areas, so from most angles, the nubs won't really be noticeable, not unless you look hard for them. Another unique trait of Hi-Res kits are their inner frame, unlike any other Gunpla, this inner frame is pre-built and needs no assembly, all the building you're really doing for Hi-Res is attaching the armor parts.
Due to this, the kits are very strong and stable, the frames themselves have die-cast metal parts in them, so they both give a good heft to the kit, add a lot more stability to the joints, strengthen rigidity, and overall elevates the look. The inner frames are very strong, and while they don't feel the best when assembled, they are fine with all the armor on. The frames themselves are very detailed, with a lot of plastic colors on them, gimmicks like working pistons and mechanisms, and are overall some really nice inner frames that stand out from the rest.
Despite this, Hi-Res isn't known for it's poseability, because while Hi-Res kits look great, the overall weight and balance isn't always the best with the armor. Even with sturdy joints that you'd think have a lot or range, it might be hard to get a pose due to them not being able to hold up it's own weight. Now, you might be already able to tell as well, but Hi-Res are not your typical model kit, these kits are not really built from the ground up, you're really just putting armor parts on a pre-assembled frame.
Not only this, but customising is a no for this kit, Hi-Res kits are meant to be built to the manual and are not really made to be painted or customised. The frame especially, due to it's pre-built nature, it's not meant to be torn apart and messed about on, and if you do break it, it costs a lot for a replacement. As for the armor, sure you can work on it, but that wastes the finishes and coatings the kits come in, basically meaning you're wasting your own money in that aspect. So the "OOB only" traits of Hi-Res could, and already did turn off some Gunpla fans from buying Hi-Res kits, as the building experience isn't quite as complete, while the customising experience isn't really meant to happen.
Another turn off for some people are the prices, due to the special finishes, extreme engineering, major parts separation, and pre-built inner frame containing die-cast, these kits are expensive, bordering if not surpassing PG prices. For that, typical gunpla fans would rather buy a PG rather than a glorified 1/100 kit that pretty much just looks amazing.
All in all, Hi-Res is a black sheep compared to other Gunpla. It is a high end grade with great engineering, as the OOB appearance of these kits look absolutely stunning. Parts are in special coatings and finishes, with smart gate placement to hide the nubs. There's have very detailed pre-built inner frames with metal parts in it that give it stability and premium weight.
However despite having strong and stiff joints in the frame, the weight does not help Hi-Res kits balance-wise, and posing can be a little difficult. Hi-Res kits are also not intended to be customised, as they are kits that are meant to be displayed OOB due to the special finish armor parts and the pre-built frame. They are also very expensive due to their construction, so you might want to consider PG's if you have the money for them.
Overall if you're looking for a center piece that stands out in a 1/100 display with minimal effort, and don't mind the high-price tag, these kits do the job excellently. They're excellent display pieces and some of the most unique kits Gunpla has to offer, and if you're interested in them for what they are, you won't be disappointed in the finished product.
First Grade:
First grades were a bit of a failed experiment on Bandai's part. FG's were basically an attempt by Bandai to make extremely simple and basic gunpla for those on a very low budget that also wanted a 1/144 kit. FG's are despite their name, not the first grade, as that title belongs to SD. However they're named such because they are sort of the "first level" of Gunpla, and are extremely basic as such. These kits featured barebones parts separation if any at all, and have the bare minimum of joints to get in a few awkward poses.
Originally, FG's were introduced with no color separation whatsoever, and had awful seamlines and basic poseability. They were still snap fit, however engineering-wise they were like modernised versions of the original NG's from the 90's, and their OOB presentation as well as poseability really displays that fact. Not to surprise anyone but they failed horribly, and only 3 of these kits were made. However despite this, these actually have some form of merit.
The sculpting of the early FG's are actually replicative of the original PG kits, and many could actually debate that they look better than their earlier HGUC counterparts. So if you have a low budget for the kit itself, happen to have tones of paint and modeller skill, and just want them to stand and look good, these ones might do the job. However otherwise, consider buying a HG instead.
However, FG's would eventually make a return in the form of the budget line for 00. These FG's actually have some form of parts separation and looked better than the older UC FG's OOB. However, they featured the exact same basic construction and poseability, so it wasn't much of an upgrade. Some people liked these, especially kids for a simple first kit to buy, however just like their UC incarnations, they ended up failing horribly due to the similar problems and having too much of a niche audience.
In a nutshell, the FG's are a basic barebones line that really, really doesn't hit the standards of a good figure by any stretch of the imagination. They're very basic featuring simple joints similar to that of a vintage NG with both basic parts separation and poseability. Their only merit is that they're cheap, and that the old UC ones arguably have better sculpting to their HG counterparts due to being based on the PG designs.
If you know what these kits are like and want them regardless, give them a shot and possibly modify them into something to be proud of. Otherwise, FG's can be easily disregarded in favour of the HG counterparts.
EX Model:
EX Models are a bit of a strange grade compared to that of standard Gunpla. One obvious thing that you'll learn about EX Models is that they have absolutely no proper Mobile Suits kits in the grade, the closest thing you have is the Hildolfr, and that thing's more of a tank than an MS. Well, that's the thing about EX Models, they are model kits of the various support vehicles, ships, and miscellaneous machines of the UC and CE timelines. This grade isn't a common one to see on shelves nowadays, and as evident by it's limited variety and timeline reach, didn't do very well with most audiences.
There are a couple of reasons for this, so I'll just point out the most apparent one. The main draw to the Gundam franchise are the MS themselves, and while there are some fans of the other vehicles and support stuff, they're a niche audience. Some people appreciate them, be it for diorama displays, or just as novelty, but the fact that these aren't proper mobile suits detracts a lot of appeal from a franchise that's known for being a mecha show.
Second of all, is the work needed. With a few exceptions, EX Models don't look the best OOB and come in simple colors and sometimes, none. Meaning paint is almost a necessity when building these, or if you want to make them look better. There are exceptions to this, but this makes their reach a lot lower than other Gunpla.
Finally, the last problem are their price. For what they are and compared to other Gunpla kits on the market, EX Models are quite expensive, with 1/144 kits bordering low MG price. For simple vehicles that require more paint, that's a high asking price, and for a line known for it's value and low price, this is a massive strike against the grade as a whole, so from the get go with it's lower quality kits at a higher price, it was bound to draw away the already smaller audiences that were interested.
The grade is not merit-less however, as the kits occasionally feature some interesting inclusions like scale MS for the ships and battle stations, and occasionally some interesting gimmicks. Another thing to praise the grade for is their attention to surface detailing, it's quite praiseworthy. When you look closely, EX Models actually have a lot of attention to detail and accuracy in it's molding, be it bolts, vents, panels or otherwise, EX Kits offer really good detail, so it's not all bad.
Overall, no, EX Models are not the best kits out there. They're expensive and require some work from the modeller to truly shine, and when compared to other Gunpla, that's just not enough to gain a leverage over the standard grades. Nowadays, you won't see them often, and you'll have to look a bit to find some if you really want one.
They aren't without merit however, as the amount of detail these kits have is nothing to scoff at, and if you want an vehicle or ship from UC or CE timelines, EX Models are one of the only lines that offer them. These are more like standard model kits in the end, but they are fine for what they are if you expect that, and if you don't compare them to other Gunpla.
Universal Century Hard Graph:
I do not claim any ownership whatsoever for any of the images on this page, all images belong to their original owners and creators.
Massive respect to you for taking time to publish this article. I built 14 perfect grades over the last 17 years and as you said the RG especially the last few.. are surprisingly far more difficult. It makes you really wonder what's going on in the engineers heads as they're designing these.
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